The Uditer Board Blog

Walking into your first skate shop feels a lot like walking into a foreign country. Everyone's speaking a language you don't know. Deck width? Durometer? ABEC ratings? It's easy to feel lost before you even step on a board.

Here's the thing: most people who quit skateboarding in the first month don't quit because they can't learn. They quit because they bought the wrong board. A $30 Walmart special with plastic wheels that barely roll. A deck that's way too narrow for their feet. Wheels so hard that every sidewalk crack feels like hitting a curb.

This guide cuts through the noise. No hype, no jargon for the sake of jargon—just the stuff that actually matters when you're picking your first board. We'll cover traditional and electric options, because both have their place depending on what you actually want to do.

What Actually Makes a Good Beginner Skateboard

Before we get into sizes and specs, let's settle the first big question: complete vs. custom.

A complete skateboard comes pre-assembled—deck, trucks, wheels, bearings, grip tape, everything already put together. You open the box, you ride. For beginners, this is almost always the right call. Building a custom setup requires knowing exactly which parts work together, and honestly, you don't know what you like yet. You haven't even figured out if you prefer loose or tight trucks.

Custom builds are for when you've been skating for a while and know your preferences. Start with a complete. You can swap parts later.

One hard rule: do not buy a skateboard from a department store or big-box retailer. Those boards use cheap plastic trucks, low-grade bearings, and decks that delaminate after a few sessions. They're harder to ride than a real skateboard, and they'll make learning miserable. Stick to actual skate brands—they exist for a reason.

Deck Size: The One Thing Most Beginners Get Wrong

Deck width is probably the single most important spec on your first board. Too narrow and your feet feel cramped. Too wide and flipping the board becomes a workout.

Here's the cheat sheet based on shoe size and body type:

If you're an average-sized adult and you have no idea where to start, get an 8.0" deck. It's the sweet spot. Wide enough to feel stable while you're learning to push and turn, narrow enough that you won't outgrow it when you start learning tricks.

Deck length is less critical—most standard decks fall between 31" and 32.5", and that works fine for most people. The wheelbase (distance between the trucks) matters more for how the board feels under your feet, but as a beginner, you don't need to overthink this yet.

Almost all quality decks are made from 7-ply Canadian maple. This construction gives you the right mix of stiffness and pop. Avoid anything that doesn't specify the wood type or ply count—usually a sign of cheap materials.

Wheels: Soft vs. Hard, and Why It Matters

Wheel specs get confusing fast. Two numbers matter:

1. Diameter (size) — measured in millimeters
2. Durometer (hardness) — measured on the A scale (78A to 101A)

Wheel Size Guide

For a beginner, 54mm wheels are the safe default. They handle most surfaces fine and won't cause wheel bite (when your wheel rubs against the deck during a turn).

Wheel Hardness Guide

For beginners, go with 92A to 95A. Soft enough that sidewalk cracks don't throw you off, hard enough that you can still learn tricks at the park. Super-soft wheels (78A-87A) are great for cruising but terrible for learning ollies—they grip too much and bounce on landings. Super-hard wheels (99A+) are unforgiving on anything but smooth concrete.

The wheel material should be polyurethane. That's the industry standard. If a listing doesn't mention the material, skip it.

Trucks and Bearings: Don't Overthink These (Yet)

Trucks

Trucks are the metal T-shaped pieces that connect your wheels to the deck. They determine how your board turns.

The key rule: truck width should closely match your deck width. If you're riding an 8.0" deck, get trucks with an axle width of about 8.0" (usually labeled as "139mm" or "5.25"" depending on the brand).

For beginners, the stock trucks that come on a quality complete board will be fine. You can adjust tightness with the kingpin nut—looser for easier turning, tighter for more stability at speed. Start somewhere in the middle.

Bearings

Bearings sit inside the wheels and determine how smoothly and fast you roll.

You'll see ABEC ratings: ABEC-3, ABEC-5, ABEC-7, ABEC-9. Higher number = tighter manufacturing tolerance = theoretically faster.

Here's the dirty secret: ABEC ratings matter way less than people think. ABEC was designed for industrial machinery spinning at 20,000 RPM, not a skateboard wheel doing maybe 2,000 RPM. What actually matters is the quality of the steel, the seals, and the lubricant.

For a beginner: anything ABEC-5 or above from a real bearing brand (Bones, Bronson, Spitfire, etc.) is totally fine. If you're buying a complete board from a known skate brand, the included bearings will be adequate. Upgrade later when you actually notice a difference—you probably won't for a while.

Safety Gear: Don't Be That Guy

Look, nobody looks cool wearing a helmet. You know what's less cool? A traumatic brain injury.

Minimum gear for a beginner:

• Helmet — ASTM F1492 certified (skate-specific, not a bike helmet)
• Wrist guards — you will fall forward, and you will put your hands out
• Knee pads — optional but smart for the first few weeks

Skate-specific helmets cover the back of your head (bike helmets don't). They're designed for multiple low-impact hits rather than one big crash. Expect to spend $30-60 on a decent one. Replace it after any significant impact.

Traditional vs. Electric: Which One Should You Start With?

This depends entirely on what you want out of skateboarding.

Get a traditional skateboard if:

• You want to learn tricks (ollies, kickflips, etc.)
• You plan to ride at skateparks
• You're on a tighter budget
• You want the classic skateboarding experience

Get an electric skateboard if:

• You mainly want it for transportation (commuting, campus, getting around town)
• You don't care much about tricks
• You want to arrive without being drenched in sweat
• Hills in your area would make a regular board miserable

There's no wrong answer. They serve different purposes. A lot of people start on a regular board to learn balance and pushing, then add an electric to their quiver later for commuting.

Electric Skateboards: Are They Worth It?

If the idea of gliding to work or class without pedaling sounds appealing, electric skateboards are worth a serious look. They've come a long way in the last few years—better motors, swappable batteries, and price points that don't require selling a kidney.

Here's what to look for in an entry-level electric board:

• Range: 10-15 miles is solid for daily use. Anything less and you'll constantly worry about battery.
• Speed: 15-20 mph is plenty for a beginner. You don't need 30 mph on your first electric board.
• Battery: Removable/swappable batteries are a big plus. You can carry a spare instead of waiting hours to recharge.
• Remote: Look for a smooth throttle curve. Jerky acceleration on a cheap remote is a great way to eat pavement.

One brand worth checking out is Uditer. They make a few electric boards that hit the sweet spot between features and price:

• Uditer S3 Lava: Their entry-level model. Quick-swap battery (12 to 25 miles with a spare), four speed modes from 13 mph up to 28 mph, and starts at $374.99. The remote has a smooth acceleration curve, so you don't get thrown off when you first hit the throttle.

• Uditer Pixel Rider: This one's unique—it has a programmable LED screen built into the deck. You can display photos, animations, text, or even sync it to music through an app. 5.2A 187.2Wh battery gives you 10-13 miles (double that with a second battery). Starts at $499.99.

• Uditer Pixel Mini: Smaller and lighter at 78 cm x 30 cm x 15 cm (about 31" x 12" x 6"). Dual 600W motors, same swappable battery system, LED deck. Good option if portability matters. Starts at $459.99.

• Uditer Pixel Beast: The all-terrain monster. 150mm x 50mm inflatable rubber wheels, double kingpin trucks with full CNC baseplate, and the LED deck. This is for people who want to ride on dirt, grass, or gravel. Starts at $1,999.00.

All their boards ship within about 4 business days and come with a 6-month warranty. The repair center is in City of Industry, CA.

How Much Should You Actually Spend?

Traditional Skateboard

• $30-50: Don't. Just don't. These are toy boards with plastic parts.
• $60-100: The sweet spot for a beginner complete. You can get a solid board from brands like Almost, Element, Enjoi, or Santa Cruz.
• $100-150: Slightly better components—nicer bearings, better trucks, maybe a pro model deck.
• $150+: Premium completes or the start of a custom build.

Electric Skateboard

• $300-500: Entry-level. The Uditer S3 Lava and similar boards live here.
• $500-800: Mid-range with more range, better components, or unique features.
• $800-2,000+: High-end with all-terrain capabilities, premium materials, and longer warranties.

Don't spend more than $100 on your first traditional board, or more than $600 on your first electric. You don't even know if you'll like it yet. Start reasonable, upgrade later.

5 Common Beginner Mistakes

1. Buying the wrong size deck.
We covered this above, but it's worth repeating. Too narrow and you'll feel unstable. Too wide and basic tricks become unnecessarily hard. Refer to the sizing table.

2. Tightening trucks all the way down.
Cranking your trucks so the board barely turns is a common newbie move. It feels more stable at first, but you're actually making it harder to balance. A board needs to turn to stay under you. Keep trucks medium-tight.

3. Pushing with your front foot on the board.
You push with your back foot while your front foot stays on the board. Sounds obvious if you've skated, but tons of beginners try to push with the front foot. Don't.

4. Skipping the helmet because "I'm just going slow."
Most serious skate injuries happen at low speed. You're learning. You're going to fall in unpredictable ways. Wear the helmet.

5. Giving up after one bad session.
The first few days kind of suck. You'll wobble. You'll fall. Everything feels awkward. That's normal. It takes about two weeks of regular practice before pushing and cruising starts feeling natural. Stick with it.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: What size skateboard is best for a complete beginner?
For average adults, an 8.0" wide deck on a 31"-32" complete skateboard is the safest starting point. Kids and smaller riders should look at 7.0"-7.5" widths. Wider (8.25"+) if you're mainly cruising and don't plan on technical tricks.

Q: Are cheap skateboards okay for beginners?
Cheap as in $60-100 from a real skate brand? Totally fine. Cheap as in $30 from Walmart? No. The difference is in the materials—real trucks made of aluminum vs. plastic, real bearings vs. unrated junk, 7-ply maple vs. mystery wood. A bad board makes learning 10x harder.

Q: Do beginners need soft or hard wheels?
Soft wheels (78A-87A) are more comfortable on rough streets but harder to learn tricks on. Hard wheels (99A+) are fast in parks but miserable on sidewalks. Most beginners should go with something in the middle, around 92A-95A. You get a comfortable ride without sacrificing too much trick potential.

Q: Should I get a longboard or a regular skateboard?
Depends on your goal. Longboards are better for cruising, commuting, and downhill. Regular skateboards are for tricks, parks, and street skating. If you're not sure, a regular skateboard is more versatile—you can still cruise on it, but you can't do tricks on a longboard.

Q: Can I learn skateboarding on an electric board?
You can, but it's not ideal. Electric boards are heavier (15-20 lbs vs. 5 lbs for a regular board), which makes them harder to carry and maneuver. The remote adds a layer of coordination to learn. If your main goal is transportation, sure—start electric. If you want the full skateboarding experience, start on a regular board first.

Q: How long does it take to learn basic skateboarding?
Most people can push around and cruise comfortably within 2-4 weeks of regular practice (3-4 sessions per week). Learning your first ollie usually takes 1-3 months. Everyone progresses at different rates—don't compare your day 5 to someone's year 5.

The Bottom Line

Picking your first skateboard doesn't need to be overwhelming. Here's the TL;DR:

• Get a complete board from a real skate brand, not a department store
• 8.0" deck if you're an average-sized adult
• 54mm wheels around 92A-95A for a good all-around ride
• Budget $60-100 for a solid traditional setup
• Wear a helmet—seriously
• Give it two weeks before you decide whether you like it

If you're leaning electric, the Uditer S3 Lava at $374.99 gives you a solid entry point with a swappable battery and beginner-friendly speed modes. Browse the full electric lineup to compare specs.

Either way—traditional or electric—the best skateboard is the one that actually gets you outside and riding. Everything else is just details.

Related reads:

• Is Skateboarding and Longboarding the Same? Here's What Every Rider Should Know
• What Is a Mountain Board? The Complete Guide to Off-Road Skateboarding
• Off-Road Electric Skateboard: The Complete Buying Guide for 2026
• Best Electric Skateboard for College: Why Uditer Makes Sense